Thanks to tireless innovations, the sheer number of coffee varieties, extensive technical knowledge and attention to coffee production, Costa Rica is one of the most advanced coffee producing countries in Central America.
The climatic conditions in the country also play a role in the high quality of coffee produced. There are eight coffee regions: Guanacaste, West Valley, Turrialba, Valle Central (Central Valley), Tres Rios, Brunca, Orosi, and Tarrazú, a specific part of Valle Central.
Costa Rica has also become a world leader in traceability and sustainability in coffee production. Ninety percent of the country’s 50,000 coffee farmers are smallholders, and today, many deliver their cherry to boutique micro-mills that often process cherries according to producer specs to retain single-lot or single-farm qualities.
The rise of micro-mill processing, in itself, is a relatively recent development. Prior to the early 2000s it was common for smaller producers to deliver their cherry to cooperative-owned mills. As lucrative specialty markets developed, more and more farmers began establishing mills on their own farms, giving them increased control over processing and more assurance of the ‘traceability story’ so important to the growing market segment. Mills with excess capacity would then offer their services to neighboring farmers, offering a range of processing methods for small lots along with full traceability for roasters and importers. The system has enabled Costa Rica’s small to mid-sized coffee farmers to offer a wide range of differentiated products. Today, specialty lots from Costa Rica are almost as likely to bear the name of the micro-mill where they were processed as that of the producing farm.
The typically uncertain and dry weather patterns in Costa Rica make coffee farming more difficult. Long dry seasons and unpredictable weather patterns have virtually eliminated the possibility of organic farming. Nonetheless, both the government and farmers have taken active steps to protect the environment. Some of these restrictions also inform the processing methods for which Costa Rican coffee has become known.
The Palmichal micro-mill is an important partner for many specialty coffee producers in the Palmichal, Puriscal, Tarrazu and Frailes micro-regions of Costa Rica. Begun in the 2015-2016 harvest with 30 farmers participating, the Palmichal micro-mill is located in Palmichal, Costa Rica. With patios and elevated beds for varied kinds of drying, the mill is able to process coffees as washed conventional, a variety of grade of honey process and naturals.
The goal of the mill is to service farmers who grow unique coffees by flawlessly processing the cherries and beans and deliver the final result to quality-conscious importers and micro-roasters. Their small-scale, artisanal model enables them to match coffees from smallholder farmers with specific quality and process requirements all while maintaining economic and physical traceability.
The mill has 23 solar panels generating 5.0 kWp. Due to its modular setup, the project can continue growing easily each year. The mill’s nursery has 330,000 plants and is looking to continue growing, making it one of the largest coffee nurseries in the county. The Palmichal nursery sells the plants to producers at cost. It also gives farmers the opportunity to finance against their future crops.
Cultivation
The cherries for this lot were produced at the farm of Gerardo Calvo, Zaira Marín and William Méndez. The three are close friends who co-own and manage Finca Frailes. All three are lifelong coffee farmers, the second and third generations in the family to farm coffee. They planted the farm with coffee 30 years ago and have kept a regular renovation plan to maintain the farm’s health and productivity.
The trio focuses on growing the Caturra and Catuai varieties.
Harvest & Post-Harvest
Farmers bring their cherry to the mill by truck. At the mill, they measure cherries by the half fanega (approximately 46 kg). The mill fastidiously separates cherry. First floating separates the cherries. They cover cherry with clean water so that half ripe, over ripe and diseased cherries float to the top while dense and ripe cherries sink to the bottom.
The second stage of separation happens when they de-pulp the coffee. The machine separates the skin and pulp from the beans and then the cherries pass through a screen called “criba.” The screen only allows ripe cherry through, the rejections pass through another way and sell as lower grade. This coffee was honey processed, so only the skin was mechanically removed. With the mucilage intact, the beans then move to the drying patios through a tube. On the patios the coffee is moved every hour to enable uniform drying. Average drying time on the patio is around 8 days.
Palmichal mill is a part of the NAMA Café de Costa Rica project, the first of the Costa Rican government’s Nationally Appropriate Mitigation Actions (NAMAs). They’re actively working towards lower carbon emissions through investments in key technologies and methods. NAMA Café de Costa Rica is the first of its kind to support coffee farmers as they make changes to their coffee production to reduce overall emissions and resource use. Palmichal mill has contributed carbon emissions data to NAMA Café de Costa Rica and will receive 10% back on carbon reduction investments.
Origin: Costa Rica
Region: Tarrazu
Estate: Finca Frailes
Mill: Palmichal Micro Mill
Altitude: 1500 – 1600 masl
Varietal: Caturra
Estate size: 100 hectares
Processing: Yellow Honey
Harvest: Oct-March
Owner: Gerardo Calvo, Zaira Marín & William Méndez.
Cupping Score: 85
Tasting Notes: Dried Fruit, Hazelnut, Apple, Milk Chocolate
